Day 5 - Waterford

 

Taking a Waterford crystal tour in Waterford, Ireland

Rain...our wonderful fall weather finally ran out today as we awoke to rain. We headed out to breakfast in our rain gear to a small cafe in a nearby park.  

Waterford as a city was founded by Vikings in the late 9’s, although the area had settlements of both Irish and Vikings before that. The city sits between two rivers and the area of first settlement is called the Viking Triangle because of its shape. The Vikings picked the area due high ground and the two rivers, which made for easy shipping. The city vied with Dublin during its early years as the most important town in Ireland.  Also, due its location on the southern coast and its closeness to England and Europe, it was a commercial/trading center for the island.

However, Waterford is most famously known as the place where Waterford Crystal was first made about 175 years ago.  

Our first touring stop was a museum in Reginald’s Tower. The tower is named after one of the early Viking leaders in Waterford, Raghnall (Reginald). The original tower would have been wooden, with the present stone tower built about 1250. The museum has artifacts and information about the history of Waterford and the tower. At various times the tower was used as a watch tower/part of the city walls, a mint, and a prison. The tower is the oldest civic building in Ireland.

Stumble stairs, have different heights
to make it difficult for invaders. 

Next up was the Waterford Crystal factory where we learned about the history of the company, and where we were taken on a guided tour of the actual factory. We saw how the molds are made, glass blowing and cutting, etching, and engraving. All the work is basically done by hand, so no automation. It was fascinating to see the craftsman up close, and to even be able to hold a piece that was being worked on. A craftsman works for 8 years to learn any one of the four aspects of creating crystal such as blowing glass, cutting, etching, etc.

Molding the vase

Blowing glass vase

Marking where the cuts go

Cutting

Special piece created and sent to NYC after 9-11.
This was a second piece made to display. 

After a quick lunch we did a short walking tour through the Viking Tiangle. Our guide, Claire, was quite entertaining as she talked about the history of the area, including Strongbow, an English nobleman who came to Ireland to help one of the local Irish kings defeat his rival. As a "reward" Strongbow married the kings daughter, Aoife, in 1171. The marriage sort of cemented the Anglo-Noman (English) "takeover" of Ireland. I guess this is what happens when you ask friends for help.

Claire was an enthusiastic and entertaining guide 

Our final two stops were 2 other museums in the triangle. 

The Bishop’s House was where the local Bishops lived. Inside the triangle was a Cathedral that was at various times Catholic or Irish (Anglican) depending on what the English kings religion was. Rooms of the house were decorated as they might have been in Georgian or Victorian times.

Our guide inside the Bishop’s House played the role of a gossipy maid and shared several stories. 

Burial of James Rice.
Wealthy wine merchant in Waterford. 

Inside Christ Church which is now Anglican

Christ  Church where the denomination
changed with the king. 

The Medieval Museum was home to exhibits and displays about medieval Waterford. The museum is located on ground that once would have been part of the triangles Cathedral complex. Below the museum were 2 underground chambers: a dining room, and a wine cellar that date from the 1300’s. The museum also housed several dioramas which showed the size of Waterford and its walls at various times in history. Finally, the museum displayed church vestiments made in 1468 that had been hidden prior to Oliver Cromwell sacking the church/Waterford in 1650. The hiding location was forgotten and they weren't re-discovered until 1798 when the old church was raised to make way for a new church.we wish we would have had time to explore this museum another hour or so!

We were fortunate to have Claire as our Medieval Museum guide too! Her enthusiasm was
contagious and we wished we had more time. 

A silk hat from Henry VIII. The only fabric remnant that remains of him currently known. 

Waterford City Charter from 1300’s. 

Just two of the silk and gold embroidered vestments made in 1468 and then hidden away from Cromwell. 

After a hearty pub dinner we are heading off to bed. Tomorrow is a transition/travel day as we head west, with only one main stop at The Rock of Cashel.

Fish tacos

Guinness Steak Pie

Sticky Toffee Pudding